The border pass (Kyzyl Art) takes you down to the Alau Valley and Pik Lenin BC is less than an hour away. Continuing above the plateau, we encounter a short, steep snow slope of about 40 degrees. If arriving on a sunny and calm day the atmosphere can be deceptively harmless, but pin down your tent properly as sudden strong gusts occurs now and then.There are many small rivers close to the camps. 1. Kaufmann ). 22/7 Day 10: Load carry C2 to C3 (4 hrs), summit Pik Razdelnaya and return to C2, sunny and clear. ""Why must you people be so serious about all this? Be sure you're from one of the privileged countries, or you will be barred from entering the country and put on the next flight back home again. Getting There - From Kyrgyzstan There are two main routes from Bishkek to Pik Lenin.Via Toktogul and via Naryn.Regardless of which route you choose, there are some high passes along the way and minor high altitude symptoms may occur. The climb is very much a non-technical… Lenin Peak is located on the border between Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan in the Pamir mountain system. is located on The fact that Tajikistan had one of history's most brutal civil wars some years back and still has a very bad reputation of being a dangerous place is another factor.Additional reasons for the peak's popularity is the hospitable surroundings. For example, the The route is 400km easy ride to Osh. Thank you. Peak FeePalic addsThere are NO CLIMBING OR TREKKING permits in Kyrgyzstan since the beginning of season 2003. Roughly 330km. Following this link you can get more useful information about Lenin Peak Ascent: The 13'th of July 1990, an earthquake triggered an avalanche that wiped out Camp II on the Normal (Razdelnaya) route. The mountain’s designation as “easy” strikes me as an inside joke of sorts. Be sure it's written Gorno Badakhshan A. O. on it. Mountain (climbing) weather forecasts for 5 elevations of Pik Lenin, Pamir, Central Asia Ranges, Tajikistan. Someone has information about the first winter ascent? Schtraff - translation: Pocket money, fine, bribe, gift, penalty, give me your money, give me your gear etc.As long as you know you have all documents in order, stand your ground and be adamant but polite. 23/7 Day 11: Load carry/move C2 to C3 (4 hrs), sunny and clear. 40/3, Oybek str Just a day previously, team member Luca Dalla Palma (who, together with Elena Spalenza formed this three-man expedition) descended via the Normal route from 6500m using telemark skies. climb from Camp 3). Be sure you are acclimatized before leaving Khorog as the road will stay on a high altitude for a long time ahead. Count on 6-8 hours travel(230km) in between Osh and BC.Flying to Central AsiaThe cheapest alternative is usually Pulkovo Airlines, which serves Bishkek, Almaty, Tashkent, Dushanbe and Samarkand. Most companies charge 2 Euros/night for a night in their spacious two men tents.Most companies offer satellite phone calls, but they tend to be quite expensive.Gear storage is available for free for expedition members and for a small fee for those climbing alone. Usually you have to overnight in St. Petersburg. Touroperator in Central Asia "Central Asia Travel" also provides similar services. (196), Climber's Log Entries Do not bring, short technical axes, you'll have no use for them. google_ad_channel =""; Could you add our contacts to the list of agencies, please? Ak-Baytal at 4655m give you great views of lots of high surrounding peaks.You'll pass the deep blue Kara Kul Lake and this is the place from where you get your first glimpses of the Pik Lenin Massif. With its 7134 meters the Lenin Peak is the highest mountain of the Trans-Alay mountain range and one of the three seventhousanders of Kyrgyzstan. There are camps higher up in the valley on the so called Onion Field at 3800m. Entering KyrgyzstanTo enter Kyrgyzstan you need a visa. google_ad_height = 280; If you climb all of them, you get the title Snow Leopard, which is considered an indicator you're a top rank climber. The rest of the way to the lowlands and Jalalabad is an easy ride on many dozens of switchbacks. The water is clear, but you better boil or treat it in some other way before drinking it as there are plenty of life stock in the valley.A bumpy road leads to the Onion field camps and if you don't want to walk, it's easy to get a ride with a jeep. It is also the favourite mountain for alpine skiers. There is no public transport that goes all the way and a combination of mini-bus rides is the most common way of travelling. Pik Lenina er en fjelltopp i Sentral-Asia, som ligger i Trans-Alaj, på grensen mellom Kirgisistan og Tadsjikistan, og måler 7134 meter over havet. He was the first European who crossed the Alai Mountains. google_color_border = "336699"; Central Asia Travel thought to be The 3000m Dolon pass give you great views of the lush countryside and probably it's here you first see nomads. It's located next door to the Chinibagh Hotel. the border of Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. Thanks. Many times you can climb the peak even if cloudy, but you'll miss the great views from the summit. A very brief article about the incident by Ken Nolan.Another very sad episode in the mountain's history is from 1974 when a Soviet all female team was trapped high on the peak in bad weather. Extremely cold (max -26°C on Tue afternoon, min -31°C on Mon night). Their fares are mostly very interesting. Though 3 Italians on my flight lost their luggage - I have no information how it was resolved. google_color_link = "0000FF"; Detailed 6 day mountain weather forecasts for … Also here the situation has improved a lot lately and the road is now considered safe.After 160km, just after Komsomolabad, you leave M41 and head for Dzhirgatal which is 140km away on A372. Cross a rapid stream and carry on uphill along the path leading to the Lenin Glacier - approximately 2.5 to 3 hours. Osh have one of Central Asia's largest markets and can be a nice place for a stop-over.The leg to Sary-Tash is a scenic experience amongst a mix of green pasture lands, karst areas, high passes and finally the first views of the High Pamirs. Pik Lenin ski & snowboard expeditin 2001. Beautiful mountainous scenery and pasturelands along the way. the permit fee is still $100/peak and some new and ever-chaging rules about the need for a nature conservation fee applies. It is the second the highest until. google_ad_client = "pub-0821736599960485"; Just ask for "Alpinist-Wladimir" and the person you ask will know.The only way to reach Pik Lenin from central Tajikistan is to travel on the Pamir Highway and for this you need an additional permit. Moscow, Russia The last couple of years it has had even more visitors than its Kyrgyz neighbour, but since the requirement of peak fees were dropped in Kyrgyzstan and Muztagh Ata for some seasons was under control of an investment company (which charged high fees) Pik Lenin is now back in first place as the most popular 7000m mountain.Difficulty. 3. http://www.centralasia-travel.com/en/expeditions/lenin. Green rolling pastures with the yurts of the nomadic Kyrgyz sprinkled through the lush valley. Easier access and easier routes are the main practical reasons why a vast majority choose the Kyrgyz side. Ascend NW Ridge of Pik Lenin. If you are not a part of a pre-arranged expedition and arrived in the area on your own, you can camp in any of the company's BCs for a small fee. So, a 5A may sound very scary to some mountaineers, but the route is straightforward and mostly non-tech. Great to have on the lower reaches, but remember the accident frequency on the mountains have gone up a lot with the use of sticks. Russia Turkish Airlines offer flights from their Istambul hub. google_color_url = "008000"; Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. google_ad_channel =""; Lenin Peak, North Face: Standard route ascends middle of glacier then trends right and goes on to right ridge line via Camp 1. : + 7 (095) 911 77 32; 911 77 73Fax: + 7 (095) 911 77 73E-mail: asiatravel@cityline.ruWebsite: www.asia-travel.uzTour Asia Travel AgencyVadim Khaibullin (director) Radostovtsa str., 359 050060, Almaty, Kazakhstan Tel +7 3272 497936 Tel/fax +7 3272 482573 E-mail:office@tourasia.kz Website:http://www.tourasia.kz. google_color_text = "000000"; E-mail: Osh@centralasia-travel.com If you’d like to know more or request to join the team as a non-alumna, please get in touch. The range is dominated by Pik Lenin (7134m), a popular peak for those who're trying their first attempt of high-altitude climbing. Pik Lenin and the Trans-Alay range of Kyrgyzstan offer huge kaleidoscope landscapes with many ski touring opportunities - an expedition on the 7,000m Peak and was initially Places or mountains mentioned in the below text in this section marked with red boxes.The by far most common way to arrive in Kyrgyzstan is by air and a large majority land at Bishkek's Manas international airport. The green, lush meadows and relative warmth at base camp, makes a big difference compared to equivalents in the area. : +7 (499) 504 98 99 Getting There - From Tajikistan, Pamir Highway Get a "Gorno Badakshan O.A. The spring is beautiful and extremely green and even if the weather in general is quite good, sudden violent storms hits the peak. Zaalaiski is popular among the climbers with graded routes between Russian alpine grades of 2 and 6, mostly on ice and snow. a'sallamah aleikum, Sometimes the mountain decides for you whether the summit is in the cards, and this time it was not. Lenin Peak usually is the starting point for the Snow Leopard program. Uzbekistan That link leads to a very good page, which I added a long time ago on the main page for The Snow Leopards. In total, 43 climbers out of a 45 die. (5A) The temperature was down to -50 degrees C. Expedition leader: Leonid Troshchinenko (Leningrad). Crossing the stream can sometimes be difficult because of high, violent water. Aconcagua mountain itself has many routes, photos, and trip reports as children. Tashkent, Uzbekistan Ice axe. The Chinese peak has even easier access, is higher and also considered less dangerous than Pik Lenin. google_ad_format = "200x90_0ads_al_s"; This is still the the worst accident in mountaineering history. Pik Lenin : (+99871) 20002 99 In 2 minutes I had the visa in my passport and had $80 less in my pocket. In our groups, exposed films, chocolate, caps, etc. Quite a good article here about a snowboard descent in 1999... 7134m Pik Lenin is well known for predominantly two reasons; as one of the “easiest” 7000m climbs in the world, and as the site of the worst mountaineering accident, by fatality count, to ever occur. Arguably the first recorded travel through the region is the involuntary journey of the slave Filipp Efremov (an ethnic Russian), who escaped from slavery in Bukhara. Pegasus Airlines (www.flypgs.com) offer flights from Istanbul(Sabiha Gökcen), Dushanbe, Delhi and several Russian airports to Osh. If you have any valuables you want to leave while higher on the peak, ask the camp boss to take care of it.Unfortunately there are some shady individuals lurking around looking for "free stuff".Palic added:I do not know situation this year, but I had similar experiences in 1999-2001, when we had visited this area. (Days 3-6): A light covering of new snow mostly falling on Tue night. A reliable contact in Kashgar (Xinjiang, China) is Steve Larson in the Caravan Café. google_ad_client = "pub-0821736599960485"; The only noise is the tumble of melted glacier water, interupted… This is still the the worst accident in mountaineering history. Normal Route, Lenin Peak (7 134 m / 23 406 ft) overview, tours, guide list, itinerary, gear list, photo gallery, climbers, climbing costs and trip reports Done first time by the North Face (Jacob Arkin "Metla" Route 5A) on the 31'st of January 1988. Website: http://www.centralasia-travel.com It is now possible to fly directly to Osh. Lenin Peak – Via the Razdelnaya Route. Because of this fact it has become one of the most popular peaks in the world and annually recieve hundreds of climbers from all over the world.Famous for its Soviet era summit artifacts and infamous for its bad and unpredictable weather. I like this bit: The ascent route does not present particular technical difficulties, while the descent from the 7134 m. summit would excite fans of most extreme … This can be very expensive if talking to the "wrong" people. easily accessible Leaving Camp 3 before dawn. The most serious thing - is ascent before the summit plateau up to 6,900, it's a narrow and steep ridge called "the Nose", where it is easy to fall down. Go down from Camp 3 to the saddle and climb the steep take-off to the wide western ridge of Lenin Peak. On 13 July 1990, 45 mountaineers were stationed at Camp II on the Razdelnaya route at 5,300m on Lenin Peak preparing themselves for their next ascent to Camp III. (28), Additions & Corrections After Naryn (360m out of Bishkek) the road condition deteriorates step by step and after Kazarman (560km from Bishkek) the rough climb up the steep 3100m Kaldama Pass can be a taxing and bone-shattering experience. Green light filtered through the roof of the tent and I lay in my sleeping bag, thinking I’m … A rope. You cross the border to Kyrygzstan another 80-85 km away. http://www.asiamountains.net/en. Ascent to the top of Lenin peak 7134 m. And descent to the Camp 3 (6100 m). (2), Images E-mail: Moscow@centralasia-travel.com The ride from Sary-Tash is mostly over the huge grassy valley of Alau before it finally climbs up towards BC on a rough road.Via Naryn.A very busy stretch of industrial wastelands takes you east to the foothills of a small range and further to the shores of Ysyk Köl Lake. The following agencies have been around for a long time and are supposed to be some of the more reliable. Permit" in Dushanbe. google_ad_width = 728; and is one of the world's most frequently climbed. More important though, is the deep snow which make attempts very hard and the avalanche danger is generally higher. Do they continue to track these ascents since the collapse of the Soviet Union? Some climbers do and make it to the summit, but then you're really playing high.Nice to have, Do you know if a list of 'snow leopards' is maintained somewhere on the web? The 13'th of July 1990, an earthquake triggered an avalanche that wiped out Camp II on the Normal (Razdelnaya) route. Most flight search engines do not detect this connection. Wednesday 8th April 2020; Words by Richard Haszko. Adventure Travel,